Iranians Enjoyed Their Time in St. Petersburg

Iranians had a great time in St. Petersburg. Not only because Iran won against Morocco in this city, which became an excuse for several days of celebration and joy, but also because St. Petersburg is fundamentally a suitable city for a hearty enjoyment. In fact, St. Petersburg has everything for hosting the World Cup: it is a historic city, has significant tourist attractions, the locals are hospitable and friendly, and most importantly, its costs are reasonable for a group of Iranians – especially those who have come from European countries, North America, or Australia. The fall in the value of the Russian currency – the ruble – over the past three years has made St. Petersburg seem like an inexpensive city. Although the locals say that the situation in Moscow is different and costs are much higher there, ultimately, fans of the Iranian national football team, if they have come to Russia solely to support their team, do not need to include a visit to Moscow in their travel plans. During this time, I spoke with many Iranians about their experiences in St. Petersburg. The recurring theme in all comments was that St. Petersburg did not resemble the stereotype of 'Russia.' The image that forms in the minds of citizens of different countries about a country is the result of a complex process in which many factors play a role, from the history of relations between the two countries and their current relations to the performance of leaders and how the decisions of politicians are reflected in the media. Why do many people in the world think that Germans are orderly and precise? Why are the Japanese known for their hard work? What has led to the French being introduced as a romantic and passionate nation and the Italians as chaotic and disorganized? There are also preconceptions about Russians in some minds. These preconceptions can result from studying dozens of remarkable works of Russian literature or from dozens of American films that, from the Cold War to today, sometimes repeat specific characteristics associated with Russians. In recent years, these preconceptions have been tied to the actions of the leaders of this country – especially Vladimir Putin, the number one man in Russia. Putin is not an ordinary leader. He has been accused of authoritarianism by his opponents, has seized power in Russia for a long time, and does not step down, presenting an extraordinary image of himself to his citizens and the world: a powerful man with a fit body who rides horses half-naked during his vacations! Additionally, Russia has another unique feature for Iranians: it is one of the strategic allies of the ruling political system. For this reason, whether for those who support the Islamic Republic and its international policies or for those who oppose it, Russia is not a country like other countries in the world. This country has become so significant in the political relations of supporters/opponents of the Islamic Republic that in 2009, after the widespread protests over the election results, opponents chanted 'Death to Russia' in the streets of Iran. And let’s add to all this another stereotype: 'former communist country.' This last stereotype is not limited to Russia. Many from Washington and London to Tehran and Islamabad have a specific perception of countries that were classified in the Eastern Bloc in the 20th century. Based on this image, these countries are considered economically very backward due to years of communist policies, and despite three decades having passed since the collapse of communism, the effects of that period are still evident on the face of these countries. Iran's victory over Morocco was a good excuse for a grand and ongoing celebration in St. Petersburg. Now, how true were all these stereotypes about St. Petersburg and its people? The face of the city represents a dual reality. The heart of the city, with its beautiful streets, chic cafes and restaurants, and the brilliant remnants of the Tsarist Russian Empire, resembles a vibrant European city. The very long summer days and the culture of nightlife and 24-hour enjoyment make St. Petersburg an attractive tourist destination. However, this uniform image does not cover the entire city, and sometimes just a few streets away, old and dilapidated buildings and impoverished neighborhoods remind us of the city's tumultuous past. Although many tourists – including Iranians who traveled to this city to support their national team – may never pass through these neighborhoods. Alongside the European Tsar's palace and the great Hermitage Museum and cozy cafes and jazz clubs, the people of St. Petersburg also have a good talent for breaking existing stereotypes about Russians. They are warm, patient, and very polite and welcoming to World Cup guests. If you wander around the street for a few minutes, bewildered, tired, and angry, one of them is likely to come up and offer help. Although their service speed in restaurants and cafes is slow, their friendly approach was something that did not escape the eyes of Iranian guests, and in many conversations I had with them, they generally referred to these good interactions. (Let it be noted that these interactions were so good that my skeptical friend doubted that perhaps this behavior was temporary and that the St. Petersburgians were trying to be good hosts during the World Cup! Even if this strange guess is correct, as sports reporters say, it does not diminish the values of the St. Petersburgians.) Lastly, as far as I spoke with the locals, Iranians also left an image of a good guest. The reality is that Iranians were generally happy. Whether before or after the game, they were mostly engaged in dancing and celebrating. They were enthusiastic and interested fans. They established a friendly relationship with their rival fans, the Moroccans, and there were no reports of any fights or violence – which occasionally occurs between football fans – between Iranian and Moroccan fans; a situation that perhaps some locals did not expect. In summary, the clouds, wind, mist, sun, and sky turned St. Petersburg into a dream trip for the national team fans. Now many of these fans are either in Kazan (or Ghazan, the venue for the Iran-Spain match) or, like me, at this very moment as I write this, on the way to Kazan. So far, St. Petersburg has raised expectations. Let’s see how Kazan is! (The blog 'From Russia' is the daily writings of Keyvan Hosseini, a Radio Farda reporter from the World Cup venue.