The Trials of Parvaneh Kazemi, Conqueror of Everest

Parvaneh Kazemi has independently conquered several of the world's eight-thousand-meter peaks and is the first woman in the world to have a successful ascent of both Everest and Lhotse in a single season. Kazemi states: "I received no support for climbing any peak. I was mocked for every peak I wanted to climb, but I did not receive any support. They said women have no place at eight-thousand-meter heights, but I did not care about these remarks." She sought sponsorship for her Everest ascent from public and private organizations, but none were willing to support her. Even the Women's Department in the Ministry of Sports did not grant her an appointment! In 2012, she told the IRNA news agency: "When I was seeking permission from the Overseas Council for the ascent, my request was rejected. They did not consider me worthy of an individual ascent to Everest, but when I succeeded, they came to the airport for a photo opportunity." About seven decades ago, Mehrieh Zarafshan was the first Iranian woman to register a winter ascent of Damavand from the German ridge of Alam Kuh. Parvaneh told ISNA: "At that time, European women did not have the right to membership in climbing clubs. Sixty years ago, this was the cultural norm in Iran, but now we have regressed terribly instead of progressing." Kazemi had been active in badminton for years and participated as a coach, referee, and player in league competitions. She abandoned this sport in 2005 due to the atmosphere surrounding it and turned to mountaineering for relaxation. She said: "In the mountains, unlike badminton, there was no competition, and no one forced you to adhere to a specific framework. You could choose your own path wherever you wanted." Parvaneh began mountaineering at the age of 35, which is late for achieving global success in this field. Great climbers often start hiking from childhood. Tochal was the first peak she climbed. She then joined a group heading to Damavand, lacking proper knowledge of professional mountaineering and suitable equipment. She says that when they emerged from a severe snowstorm on Damavand and descended, she finally understood what mountaineering was. In 2008, she became a member of the Split Club. Two years later, she conquered the 7546-meter peak in western China known as Mustagh Ata, famous for being the father of icy mountains. From there, she began to think about eight-thousand-meter peaks. In the spring of 2011, a team of eleven men planned to ascend Manaslu in the Himalayas, reaching an altitude of 8156 meters. She traveled to Nepal as a free member alongside them. Parvaneh was the first person in the group to reach the summit, although this ascent was accompanied by a bitter incident and the death of one of the climbers. Kazemi told ISNA: "We had many problems in this group due to a lack of teamwork culture, and we faced many difficulties during the trip. I decided that if I wanted to maintain the peace I came to the mountains for and not fall into the situation I faced in badminton, I would continue mountaineering individually." In the fall of 2011, she went to the summit of Ama Dablam in Nepal. The ascent to this peak requires skills in rock climbing and ice climbing, and in most parts of the route, a fixed rope is needed. An ascent that usually takes about two weeks. But Parvaneh climbed it alone and with a stitched hand in three days. She says: "Even the Sherpa who was with me did not realize my hand was stitched, and I was carrying a lot of gear. Everyone there said you are crazy! But to me, these hardships are the joy of mountaineering." In the spring of 2012, she attempted to ascend Everest and Lhotse, but she had no sponsor. She needed $45,000 to conquer these two peaks, which she financed herself and succeeded. She claims to be the first woman in the world to have ascended these two peaks in a single season. In 2013, she targeted Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world at 8586 meters: "Again, no one in Iran supported me. While men are somewhat supported. Despite being said that mountaineering is the sport of intellectuals, women climbers are not accepted!" Most climbers who ascend eight-thousand-meter peaks move behind Sherpas. Sherpas pack the snow so that climbers can move behind them with fixed ropes. However, during her ascent this year to Makalu, Parvaneh had neither fixed ropes nor a snow-packing path. She says: "Foreign climbers were surprised and said you had become a Sherpa and opened the way for us! Even if I did not reach the summit, I still enjoyed it a lot. I spent a year going to the mountains alone every week for such occasions."